I always used to dread walking around Oxford Street. Even in the throes of winter it felt hot, rife with people, and every single corner seems to only offer up a Costa or Pret for breakfast with minimal seating. But the pandemic has changed everything. And it is a difficult time to open a restaurant with people reticent to return to their normal habits and some offices announcing their closure until 2021.
One place that has recently opened its doors is Eggslut, the gourmet food concept famous for egg sandwiches now has a venue a short walk from Tottenham Court Road Station and offers up a new stylish kind of daytime dining. This is in fact the 10th Eggslut location to open worldwide.
As you may have guessed, it specialises in eggs: with six different sandwiches on offer. But these are not your standard run-of-the-mill sandwiches, they are artfully crafted with high quality (read: tasty) ingredients and designed to ooze aestheticity. Everything about Eggslut is aesthetic: from the graffiti fried egg mural that adorns the wall and the giant gleaming white egg where DJ sets take place to the slick presentation of each dish and their ability to present an erstwhile messy food like egg in such a stylish manner.
When I arrived my friend B had already sat himself down in the outdoor seating of the venue which I imagine would be perfect for a summer’s day (not during the heatwave). We were quickly greeted by the very friendly staff who asked if we wanted to sit upstairs which we agreed would be a good idea. Passing through the live kitchen where one can see everything being freshly prepared, we followed our waiter up the spiral stairs to the spacious upstairs room. The whole area feels open and clean: two words people long for in the midst of a pandemic with huge bay windows flooding the room with light.
Parched, I ask for an orange juice which arrives promptly and was freshly juiced. Early on after we sit down B admits to me that he has eaten five scrambled eggs for breakfast. I looked at him in astonishment: why on earth would you eat eggs for breakfast knowing we were coming to a restaurant called Eggslut?! This did not stop him from devouring the food when it arrives, however.
We decided to share ‘The Slut’ – the provocatively named speciality of smooth potato purée with a coddled egg on top poached and served appetisingly in a glass jar. Baguettes with fresh olive oil are served on the side to help eat this sophisticated and delicious take on the childhood classic of egg and soldiers. It was very moreish, and the quality of ingredients made all the difference, with the olive oil enhancing it to another level. I had opted for The Fairfax, which is their classic sandwich made with soft scrambled eggs and cheese, served in a brioche bun. The sweetness of the brioche complimented the softness of the eggs and it had a very fresh and comforting taste. Had I not been vegetarian I would definitely have gone for The Gaucho, which B ate in record time: the seared wagyu was ‘a great cut of meat – not too chewy and is paired perfectly with fresh spinach, spicy chimichurri, and of course, an egg fried to perfection.
Throughout the meal staff were attentive and kind, and it was clear they all had a good rapport with one another. The space is very accommodating, and I easily could have stayed longer; the décor is clever, and the light greys and wooden floors make the whole area seem neat and very open and a pleasant space to be in. Though we were both perfectly full, B especially, we could not resist the tantalising description of the freshly baked cookie with sea salt which was utterly divine. Perhaps not something you would think to order in a place called Eggslut, but something I heartily recommend you do.
Eggslut Fitzrovia, 19 Percy Street, Fitzrovia, London, W1T 1DY, England.
Tel: +44 (0)20 3673 6762
Eggslut is a five-minute walk from Tottenham Court Road Tube Station on the Central and Northern lines and is open Monday to Sunday from 8:00am to 5:00pm.
Type of Restaurant: Gourmet Food Concept Restaurant
Price Band: Medium
Insider Tip: Make sure you get a cookie to take away at the end of your meal – you won’t regret it!
Reviewer’s Rating: 8.5/10
Maighna Nanu is a London based freelance journalist.
Photographs courtesy of Eggslut