The opening of Oste brings pizza and promise…
So accustomed to wincing at any alert to activate my inbox, I leaned in, closer, just to make sure my blue light glasses weren’t deceiving me. A restaurant… opening? In January (13th) of 2021? What did that even mean?
Come. Learn with me.
So, this is the part where I would usually wax my first sensory onslaught of visuals. Not how it works anymore. At Oste (Osteria, abbreviated), their West 3rd Street doors have opened for delivery and take-out only. Once Los Angeles is permitted to reopen for dine-in, we’ll get a gander on what’s going on behind that gloriously gilded gate, formerly of Little Next Door fame. Meanwhile, let’s talk about what’s happening in that oven.
Pinsa, people. Derived from the Latin word pinsere, to press, it’s a bit of an underground Roman revelation. A distinct style of pizza so transportive it simultaneously scratches that travel itch while reminding us how desperately we miss it (seriously travel. I miss you so much). Roman Italian pizza. Real, true, dating back to the Roman empire true. If you want to, you can think of it as pizza with perks. The high-water concentration and long cold fermentation leads to a crunch that is low in calories, low in fat, and easy to digest. Yes, pizza game. There’s a new player in town. And this OG version knows a thing or two about tradition.
In the now, the menu is truncated. Pinsa pick-ups paired with a swanky take-out beverage list, featuring 40% off all wines (nice. Bello) brought to us by sommelier extraordinaire Tiffany Bulow (Otium). We selected four pinsas for our family of four. Margherita, Funghi, Cipolla and Viva L’Italia.
The fior di latte and fresh basil on the Margherita, the wild mushrooms and truffle oil on the Funghi, the caramelized onions and balsamic and thyme on the Cipolla, and the pesto and goat on that Viva L’Italia. They are all… so good. Remarkably good. The crust does that crispy thing and the freshness of everything on top, it all combines magically. And the feeling of supporting a new restaurant which must have scaled Everests to get their doors open? It metabolizes remarkably as well.
The co-owners, Jocelyn Bulow of France, and Alessandro Iacobelli of Rome (or so he calls his home) knew exactly what they were entering when they opted into an already competitive pizza market. Pinsa is different. It’s that edible ace discovered when exploring the underground street food scene in Rome.
Once regional public health orders allow for dining in, I will remain genuinely jazzed about pairing these pinsas with some salads, some crudo. But for now. This take-out option is a fantastic Oste orientation. And in a wash of empty windowfronts that inexplicably hurt my feelings, this opening is hope. With truffles.
Oste, 8142 W. 3rd Street, Los Angeles, CA 90048, United States.
Tel: +1(323) 413-2372
The restaurant is located on West Third Street, west of Fairfax and is open Wednesday and Thursday from midday to 9:00pm; Friday and Saturday from midday to 9:30pm and Sunday from midday to 9:00pm. It is closed all day Monday and Tuesday.
Type of Restaurant: Cucina Romana Pinseria & Eatery
Price Band: Medium
Insider Tip: Don’t expect these to arrive in a perfect circle all sliced up. Have your pizza cutter at the ready!
Reviewer’s Rating: 8/10
Jolie Loeb is a Luxury Lifestyle columnist based in Los Angeles.
Photographs by Jolie Loeb