Sometimes a second visit to somewhere you really enjoyed is as good as a first or could it be even better? Let’s find out as I rediscovered one of my favourite hotels ever in the intriguing Porto, Portugal.
Porto is a majestic jewel on the Atlantic Ocean, with beautiful tiled buildings to keep the damp out, it is steeped in history and the possibilities of discovery. Since the 14th century Porto has been a departure point for long haul trips to the Americas and beyond. I am here again to catch up with some old friends, the historic buildings, bridges and the lifeblood of Porto; the Douro. Also, some of the staff at Porto’s most exclusive hotel, the boutique jewel that is Palacete Severo.
This edifice of style and understated luxury is only two years in business and already it has a Michelin Key for the excellent service, a Michelin mention for the Bistro Severo and a Michelin Star for Éon, the restaurant extraordinaire. Incidentally chef Tiago Bonito looks after both these thoroughly enjoyable dining experiences.
Staying there is not a hurried or rushed experience, the staff manoeuvre with grace and elegance and they are friendly not in your face friendly but kind, open and intelligent friendly. These qualities alone are worth staying for. I’d been here 20 minutes and two separate members of staff I had previously not met before were equally warm and welcoming. The point is that this place, this Palacete has the pulse of grown up communication that you don’t get very often out there in the real world. In the quiet sophisticated world of Palacete Severo it comes as standard.
The hotel started out as an architect designed family home just over 100 years ago. It has since been faithfully renovated with the love and care you’d expect with such a classy hotel. New additions have appeared since it was a home including a heated salt water outdoor pool, a spa and beautiful grounds, perfect for a contemplative walk, plenty of quiet nooks to lose yourself in a book, take some tea or sample the advanced mixology of the bartender.
Quite the journey. I enjoyed their bespoke approach, say the sort of flavours, style and comparable you like and they will create something better that you could think of.
In the spa I had a cranial massage, only 15 minutes long but it sure did work. Unusually it started with my feet then moved on to my head! Susana, my qualified masseuse who had retrained years ago from being a translator assured it was the best way forward. The deviation in career had definitely worked, I left walking on air and totally clear headed. So, to get a head start, begin with the feet!
The food at Palacete Severo is really splendid – solid, sophisticated with every component earning its place on the plate. Veal tartare with confit egg yolks and a disc of foie gras was terrific, rich and unctuous. The veal perfectly lifted by the sweet goose liver lobe – a symbiosis of pleasure and gratification. My pasta with truffles, truffle powder and truffle oil could have been overpowering. I found it balanced but rich and took my pheromones into overdrive – robust, long lasting and yes there was another egg yolk (hen) under the Parmesan. A complex dish with a long finish. Cheeses in Portugal can be a little same, but the five that adorned my plate like a sculptural cathedral all had their own identity, my favourite was a sheep’s cheese similar in taste to Pecorino, salty and hard.
There are so many things to do in Porto even if it’s just walking around the old city centre (to work off that food)! You’ll find churches (usually open all day), restaurants, the superb Majestic Café (worth going for a coffee and just to people watch). I took a couple of bus tours around the city and out to Foz do Douro. Large tracts of sand beach, plenty of fish restaurants and only 10 minutes from the city centre. And I’d say that a visit to Porto is not complete without a boat ride along the mighty Douro River. It’s the best way to appreciate the six historic and modern bridges that span from Porto across to Nova de Gaia on the other side of the river.
The whole city is full of curious shops, Livraia Lello bookshop for one is lavish and so beautiful inside, seriously good restaurants and bars with a vibe that’s hard to quantify, it almost South American in feel at times but so much easier to get to from the UK.
The Details
Palacete Severo, Rue de Ricardo Severo 21, 4050-515, Porto, Portugal.
Tel: +351 229 677 000
Website: www.palacetesevero.com
Email: hotel@palacetesevero.com
Palacete Severo is located in a quiet residential area of Porto close to Casa de Musica and the Museum of Contemporary Art at Serralves Museum. It’s about a 30 minute walk from the hotel to the main attractions in downtown Porto. Porto Airport is just 7 miles away while Vila Real Airport 46 mile away.
Type of Hotel: 5-Star Boutique Hotel and Art Gallery
Number of Rooms: 20 rooms and suites
Price Band: Medium to high
Insider Tip: Ask the barman to knock up a personal cocktail.
Reviewer’s Rating: 1/10
Author Bio:
Neil Hennessy-Vass has spent a lifetime in the media working across a multitude of platforms. From broadcasting to journalism Neil takes his unique lens to seek out the essential and distinctive. He currently runs his own creative agency Xavicus Media based in London but still finds time to trot around the globe, soak up the arts and read a good book.
Photographs by Neil Hennessy-Vass
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