There’s a nostalgia about arriving at The Pier in Harwich that is as pure as the briny breezes, silvery light and boom of the North Sea. The most elegant of all the buildings by the quay, this cream-fronted stunner was built in 1864 in the style of a Venetian palazzo, offering accommodation to those journeying to the continent by boat. Despite its reimagined interiors, in many ways it is still an ode to a more genteel, hanky-waving era – when the only way to travel was by crossing the sea.
The hotel still captures that same nautical feel today, with the ever-changing light and moods of the North Sea, fiery sunsets, ferry horns drifting above the morning mist and views across to the RNLI lifeboat station and the Ha’penny Pier, one of Britain’s oldest piers, which opened in 1853 charging a ½d toll – hence the name.
On the fringes of historic Harwich, this harbourfront hotel sends that maritime heritage winging into the 21st century, with slickly contemporary interiors bearing the hallmark of Geraldine Milsom, who has also put her minimalist cool stamp on other hotels including Talbooth House & Spa in Dedham and Kesgrave Hall in Suffolk.
Sea-view rooms
Outside there are wide-open views of the sea, but step into The Pier and there’s a more intimate air. The hotel harbours just 14 boutique rooms spread across two historic buildings that sit side by side. Top billing, naturally, goes to deluxe and superior rooms facing the sea, which are well worth the upgrade. All rooms are smartly furnished with super-comfy beds with crisp white duvets, pinstripe fabrics in soft caramel or terracotta shades, oversized mirrors and modern lighting. Nice touches include complimentary water in the mini fridges and either Elemis or Jo Loves toiletries.
The best room in the house is The Mayflower Suite, named after that mighty ship, believed to have been built in Harwich before 1600, on which Pilgrims later travelled from Plymouth to the New World in 1620. There’s probably a grain of truth in the rumour as the town was indeed home to Christopher Jones, the ship’s captain. The Mayflower fully embraces Harwich’s maritime heritage with a telescope for gazing out to sea and a figurehead on the wall. I sink into one of the leather sofa chairs by the window and am entranced by the views over the Stour Estuary as day fades into golden sunset.
Exploring Harwich
One of the joys of staying at The Pier is the chance to take a deep dive into historic Harwich. You might have heard of the town’s working docks, but Harwich reveals an entirely different side when you strike out on foot. I hook onto the Maritime Heritage Trail, which shines a light on Harwich’s nautical heritage, taking you from lighthouse to Lifeboat Museum, the circular Redoubt Fort built in 1808 to ward off Napoleonic invasion and the Barge Murals, depicting Thames barges.
Dipping into the pretty lanes of Old Harwich, I also stumble across the Electric Palace, a gorgeous Edwardian cinema built in 1911 that is one of Britain’s oldest still in operation.
The tide is high and rain clouds are hovering on the horizon during my winter stroll along the seafront, but in the warmer months you can head down to sand-and-shingle Dovercourt Bay and walk through the mudflats and marshes of Hamford Water National Nature Reserve, where seals can be spotted in spring and summer. Seal watching boat trips through the backwaters get you even closer.
Speciality gins and seafood
Evenings begin in mellow fashion in the NAVYÄRD, The Pier’s ground-floor bar, designed with exposed brick painted white, bare bulbs, caramel leather chairs and a pinch of Scandi cool. There are nods to the nautical past here, too, with vintage posters advertising ferry trips over to the Hook of Holland. The big deal is the gin library with 150 gins, including niche labels to try. They also do a fine line in cocktails, such as the Dark N Stormy (dark rum, ginger beer and Angostura bitters). And if you would rather keep dinner casual, you can nibble on light bites from fish and chips to gourmet burgers here.
Otherwise, head up – as I did – to the first-floor brasserie, which has carved out a reputation for serving some of the best seafood in Essex. Colchester oysters with shallot vinegar, lemon and tabasco are a palate-awakening prelude to starters like grilled mackerel fillet with potato salad, curry mayonnaise, golden raisin and pine nuts. Mains swing from grills like lobster thermidor served with skinny fries, crispy onions, pecorino and chives, to the catch of the day. My poached fillet of halibut with saffron potatoes, sea vegetables, tiger prawns and sauce Américaine was spot on. Dessert-wise, the dark chocolate torte with candied pistachios and banana ice cream wins. House wines, including a crisp, light, zesty Côtes de Gascogne white, start at a reasonable £7 a glass or £27 a bottle.
The brasserie is also where breakfast is served – a generous spread of granola, pastries, fresh fruit and yoghurt, cheeses and cured meats. There’s full English should you want it but also more novel choices such as crab omelette with coriander and chilli, eggs Royale with house-smoked salmon and Huevos Bendictos with spicy chorizo, avocado and salsa.
In summer, check out newcomer Deck 1853, a coolly converted shack on the pier, for pizza, pasta, paninis, salads and proper Italian gelato from the ice-cream hatch.
The Details
The Pier, The Quay, Harwich, Essex, CO12 3HH, England.
Tel: +44 (0)1255 241 212
Website: www.milsomhotels.com/the-pier
Email: pier@milsomhotels.com
Harwich is on the North Sea coast of Essex, with an estuary at the confluence of the rivers Stour and Orwell. To reach The Pier by road from London, take the A12 and turn off at junction 29, merging onto the A120. Follow the A120 until you reach The Quay in Harwich.
If you’re arriving by public transport, trains run between London Liverpool Street and Harwich Town station in 1hr 22min and involve a change in Manningtree.
Type of Hotel: 4 AA Star Boutique Hotel
Number of Rooms: 14 rooms (deluxe sea view, deluxe, deluxe family, superior sea view, classic); Wi-Fi is complimentary.
Price Band: Medium
Insider Tip: Check the special offers page on the website for packages.
Fact Box Standard double rooms start at £139 including breakfast. The Mayflower Suite starts at £239. Dinner from the à la carte menu is from £40 per person for three courses. The children’s menu is from £20 per child for three courses.
Reviewer’s Rating: 9/10
Author Bio:
Kerry Walker is an award-winning travel writer and guidebook author.
Photographs courtesy of Milsoms/The Pier
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