Full disclosure.
Once you experience any triad of the Domaine & Demeure collective, you are a bit of a changed traveler. Three separate sleeping giants, reawakened. Each a private wine estate, restored and regaled in the most tasteful of tones and touches, an impeccable style and an unrelenting reverence, the gold standard of customer kindness, resulting in an unfathomably special place to vacate. I had experienced two of their three chateaux, an assemblage of authentic French ambiance and a pristinely preserved production of historical architecture and modern luxury, with my friend and my sister in the fall of 2024. It was my family who helped me complete the trifecta, this summer, at Chateau Les Carrasses.
Nestled inside the roving rows of flowering fields beyond the eternity of vines, this 19th century wine domain is pebbled pathways, sprawling sun saturated windows overlooking poetic patios shaded by vine winded pergolas, fountains, an infinity pool overlooking forever greens, surrounded by sunbeds and parasols, and scenery so spectacular that catching your breath becomes a regular rite of passage. Market umbrellas mingle with crystal chandeliers, ancient olive trees cradle and canopy and accommodations range from one of the 11 exquisitely designed chateau studios to 19 private villas, housing up to eight.
The villas.
With their private terraces, gracious gardens, heated pools and oversized loungers, they manage to take whatever French fantasy exists in that magnificent mind of yours and elevate it. The décor marries modern upscale with a fine-tuned French palate and a southern Franc quintessence, a finesse and a finish that inspire in all the most understated ways. Architecture on par with interiors, sunlight and the softest neutrals. Dove greys, stone blues, chunky blankets and Cinq Mondes amenities. Rustic beams, iron hardware, French relics and windows that welcome the wash of fresh air. Regularly refilled still and sparkling water in the fridge. An aromatic bliss unique to Les Carrasses. Our two-story villa gave each of us not just our own expansive bedroom, but each our own bathroom as well. Such spaciousness, with family travel is an undeniable dream.
On brand, the much-accoladed restaurant flaunts a phenomenal menu of foie gras to black truffle puff pastry, smoked vanilla ice cream and whiskey sorbet. Produce, herbs and all that grows from the ground is sourced directly and entirely from their kitchen farm just up the hill (you can visit it or pass it on your way to the spa, we’ll get there). Following drinks on the upper terrace overlooking the valley, we dined on the main terrace at golden hour, with the Mediterranean sun dipping down beyond the cypress. I began with the green vegetable tartlet with ricotta, moved onto the shellfish conchiglioni and finished with the strawberry and rhubarb variation, vanilla and gingerbread cream, basilic and yuzu sorbet. And alongside, many sparkling glasses clinked of buttery, beautiful vintages.
The service is as special as the cuisine, and it is hard to not feel like you’re having a quintessentially French experience enveloped in it all. The restaurant is open to residents and non-residents, so make those reservations and enjoy what many travel specifically to enjoy.
And the little treatment spa.
Just getting there is a meditation. A private ride up into the pine forest, past the little farm, through the kitchen garden (supplying 100 per cent of the produce you dined on the night before), you’ll arrive at Le Mazet. Formerly a rustic place of repose, this tranquillity cabin, a petite mountaintop stone house, has been repurposed for our spa experiential pleasure. Here, steeped within the vines, facials, massages and body treatments are enjoyed to the backdrop of birdsong (and depending on season, a chorus of cicadas). Emmanuelle, with her delicate demeanour and superior skillset, treated us each with an hour massage, phenomenal on all fronts, the first of its kind for both my daughters. Who are now likely ruined for life.
Breakfast is a gorgeous sprawl of traditional French provisions. Baguettes and brie, Bonne Maman and yogurts, granolas, stone fruits and eggs made to order, can be enjoyed inside the restaurant or under the towering trees beside the gleaming greenhouse (designed by Gustave Eiffel, you may be familiar with his other work in a neighboring city). The views and vistas and sensory concord are quite literally, nonstop.
And the location, which you’ll struggle leaving because honestly who ever would elect to do so, makes it magnificently easy to day trip.
We began with an al fresco breakfast beneath the trees and moved onto the little farm, where we made multiple farm friends, including Gaston the cow and those glorious chickens, geese, goats, lambs, ponies and Plum and Cinnamon the farm puppies. Another place we could have hung all day. The organic garden expands immediately next to it.
We moved onto a walking wine tour, where Lise guided us through the vines, landing lavishly in a tasting built for families. Chardonnay, cabernet and merlot grape juice for the under 18 set and a wine tasting for rest. Sipping something so sumptuous around noon. Ah, but when in France.
From the Les Carrasses vineyards we headed to the beach, La Serignan Plage, a lovely local beach where the Mediterranean provides a bathtub temperature that was far and away the most cradling and comforting any of us had ever experienced. Clear, clean and so very gentle, I could swim those waters forever I’m fairly sure.
But we craved a hit of shopping, so we headed to Narbonne from there where we scored some vintage frocks and ice cream. Walking those stone paved streets beneath those blue shutters is a village daydream come true.
We returned to our villa so we could shower before dinner, with one more adventure left in the day. We made our way through the flanking cypress, past the winding Plane Tree roads, way up the mountains and over the bridge to Roquebrun, a little mountain top town with tear inducing views. Dinner overlooking it all, at Let Petite Nice.
All is so easy in a day here, but sincerely, a day spent not moving from the property is indelibly decadent, which is why I recommend as many as you can possibly allow.
But it is the graciousness. The graciousness is the thing that lingers long past the last goodbye. The complete and utter absence of arrogance. The help and hope to make your stay as enjoyable and tailored to your wants as possible. So rare for a destination of this calibre to be graced with such ease and human generosity.
Located in the Languedoc region of southern France, a region notoriously associated with wine and sunshine and seaside along the Mediterranean; cypresses, olive trees, varietals of vines and vegetation, the Château Les Carrasses speaks to it all. And this is by no mistake. Visionaries Karl O’Hanlon and Anita Forte ever intentionally created a blissful coexistence between nature and humanity and heritage; rewriting the book on laid back luxury vacating. The lambs and ponies and goats and geese and Gaston the Cow in the little farm. The sprawling rows of herbs, vegetables and fruit growing wild in the kitchen garden, gleaning Thomas Keller goals. The complimentary bikes, the integration and prioritization of hiring locally and the ethos of social and environmental stewardship is ever present. And the exquisitely honed vision of spaciously vacating with family in a hermitage so magnificent, a rural retreat providing the ease of a summer home, the splendour of an impeccably preserved working wine estate, is remarkably, idyllically realized, at Château Les Carrasses. I cannot recommend it any higher.
The Details
Château Les Carrasses, Route de Capestang, 34310 Quarante, France.
Tel: +33 (0) 4 67 00 00 67
Website: www.lescarrasses.com
Email: resa@lescarrasses.com
Château Les Carrasses is located southwest of Béziers, just five minutes from the Canal du Midi and between the villages of Quarante and Capestang. It is easily accessible from neighbouring European countries as well as the UK, served by the A9, A61 and A75 motorway network. And there is plenty of free parking for guests. The closest train stations are Montpellier, Béziers and Narbonne, offering regular national and international connections by TGV. Eight international airports link the Languedoc to European cities, served by regular low-cost airlines.
Type of Hotel: 4-Star Luxury Hotel and Wine Estate
Number of rooms: 8 rooms and studios and 19 self-catering villas.
Price Band: Medium to high, depending on the season.
Insider Tip: Stay as long as you are able. Whenever you leave it will feel too soon. For spacious South of France family vacating, you cannot do better than a Domaine & Demeure property.
Reviewer’s Rating: 10/10
Author Bio:
Jolie Loeb is a Luxury Lifestyle columnist based in Los Angeles.
Photographs courtesy of Château Les Carrasses and by Jolie Loeb
This looks like true paradise.
Stunning!
Beautiful, this is my dream stay! 😍
You described the beauty of this place so well! I had the best time.
This was an absolutely incredible place and way to experience the south of France for the first time. From the daily breakfast buffets to our private pool it was seriously a dream. Thanks mom!!
I have to re-evaluate my bucket list and move this one straight to the top.
Looks nice, but it feels like the 2nd & 3rd commenters might have received compensation!
I know the two you’re speaking of. Heavily compensated. But so much fun to have around . .
Wow that looks awesome!
Oh my, your narrative made me feel like I was there, you amaze me! Thanks for transporting me. A girl can dream!!
This place looks absolutely amazing!!
I so wish my mother were still alive. She LOVED the south of France and would have tucked herself right in here and stayed! Thank you so much for taking me away. Your reviews are always so magical.
Even if I don’t get to travel there, I feel like I took a vacation in southern France! It sounds devine Jolie. What a wonderful experience to share with your family. ❣️
OMG this is the LIFE. Thank you for uncovering this gem.
It seemed like fantasy. Everything was beyond imagination. I enjoyed hearing from both daughters who were overwhelmed as well. You mention that you leaving Will come too soon. In my mind that equates to an Overall Aplus…it says it all!
Just beautiful! Each detail sounds like exactly what you would order if you could even think of such a thing, and it’s even more delightful because you didn’t think of it, but it was exactly what you wanted without knowing it! Seems like a perfect place to meet halfway between my country and your country! When are we going?
Oooooh, the south of France! This property looks absolutely magical. Actually all three of their Châteaus look amazing – going on the wish list!
What a dream! Your methodical words made me feel as if I was in the South of France! Beautiful family experience
A French summer with your own pool. Bow down. Love that your children got to experience it with you. Your IG photos took us along for the beautiful journey. I prefer a more hands-on visit, but that was a solid second.
The mood, the vibe, the expressive nature of the surroundings….so glad you got to experience this. Certainly made it appealing to anyone headed for the south of France.
How lovely this boutique hotel sounds. Spacious rooms and gourmet breakfasts. This sounds like an unforgettable experience. The hotel captures the quiet luxury of the South of France that I long for.
I had to open their website after reading about your stay at their property. There I found more photos comporting with your telling of your experience.
Phenomenal on all fronts! I’ll take a whiskey sorbet s’il vous plait!
Wonderful! I feel like I went… and now I want to go again!
After visiting the other two chateaux owned by this same company, I NEED to go visit this one like right now! A dream vacation!! Beautiful review, Jolie.
WOW!!!! This place looks AMAZING!!!! I am putting it on my list for future travel immediately!!!! Thank you for the great tips!
What a gorgeous stay! The grounds are stunning and the atmosphere described so well. This is on my list for sure.
It doesn’t even seem real! I never knew something so exquisite existed. Thanks for the review!
Spectacular write-up on a property I would have never discovered on my own! This is going on the bucket list!
Thank you for sharing the delights of Chateau Les Carrasses. You’ve forced me to add another place to my travel bucket list. Thank you.
This estate looks enchanting! Jolie, you always highlight the best places. Please bring me with you next time 😉
#travelgoals!
Wow- what a beautiful trip – feels so unique, but also “easy”- thanks for the article!!
You’ve captivated my heart and soul with your elegant and descriptive prose!
Would love to be able to visit and enjoy this gorgeous space and relish in the exceedingly special venue.
And if they haven’t already cut and pasted your copy and observations about them and added it to their website they should!!! I hope we can enjoy it all one day soon!
So beautiful!! Would love to visit one day 😍
The team that built and maintains this spectacular venue has created a magically balanced environment of informal luxury. The accommodations are as luxurious as any 5 star resort and the service was impeccable. But perhaps most impressive was the team and the warmth with which they welcomed and took care of us throughout our stay. I cannot possibly recommend Les Carrasses more highly and can’t wait to go back (and to stay at Domaine & Demeure’s other properties)!
I’m so in!! Take me there now!!
C’est magnifique! How do you discover these places?!
This place sounds magical!
How incredibly beautiful. The look of this historic hotel works so well with the infinity pool and views, and the path to a warm ocean. This seems like the perfect spot with wonderful walkability to so many unique experiences close by.
This looks beyond dreamy. So incredibly beautiful!! I love the way you describe everything. It really looks & sounds like heavenly bliss! Next time can you please take me with you?!?! Truly captivating!
This is a dream at the top of my bucket list. The scene pulls me in with such peace, painted by exquisite phrases—an eternity of vines, forever greens…This is a top pick for my bucket list! I especially love your experience of utter lack of arrogance too. I’m closing my eyes now and imagining this is the place for our 25th wedding anniversary.
Nothing wrong with living vicariously and being transported by words to such a wonderful place. Thank you for giving us such a fun anmd beautiful experience from your words to pictures in our minds.
Love love love the decor. The mix of modern and that classic French. Dying.
I felt wisked away on the adventure with you! Always love reading about your travels. Wonder where your next will be? Any hints?
Elegance — welcoming warmth — all wrapped in one time and place! I love the writing and descriptions — very enticing – time to make travel plans ✈️!!!
Aahh. . . the South of France. I’ve imagined it but never came close to the perfection you so eloquently convey. What an exquisite property and experience.
Wow- I would love to go here! Thank you
What a heavenly slice of paradise! It looks and sounds simply stunning! First class and luxurious, yet intimate and relaxed. A perfect combination! Thanks so much for sharing!
Will I ever be able to afford to go here? No. But lines like “flaunts a phenomenal menu of foie gras” make me feel as if I were already there, and I so enjoyed the piece.
This location is absolutely gorgeous! I will definitely add this destination to my bucket list.
This looks absolutely enchanting! The way you described the sun-dappled vineyards, the charming suites, and that inviting pool made me feel like I was right there with you. The photos only brought it more to life — it truly looks like a slice of heaven. It sounds like exactly the kind of place I’d love to escape to: relaxed luxury, stunning scenery, and a chance to slow down and savor every moment. Thank you for sharing your experience so beautifully. Now it’s on my bucket list!
Sign me up. You brought this little corner of France to life so beautifully. ❤️
This sounds utterly magical! Friends of ours are moving to France at the end of the year. We will most definitely be adding this to our itinerary when we visit them. It won’t be hard to convince my husband, especially when I mention the whiskey sorbet!
Oh wow! How beautiful! I would love to add Château Les Carrasses into our next vacation. Thank you for yet another excellent travel idea, Jolie.
What a truly stunning depiction of your experience! Sounds like a magical place. In the apt words of Liz Lemon, “I want to go to there.”
I like to think that the French vacation of my dreams doesn’t ACTUALLY exist. Like, there’s nothing that could be what I think of. And then…there’s this. Sweet cheese, this is beautiful. So, there’s a little pool with each villa?
Looks and SOUNDS like a dream. Thanks for sharing in vivid detail and bringing it to life. For sure a new travel goal!
Looks like an amazing stay! Putting this down on my vacation list immediately!
Wow, that sounds dreamy!
Wow! I’m changing my daily mantra “Be here now” to “Be there now” Wish me luck!
This made me laugh! I’ll be there with you, Linda!
Wow! What a fantastic experience. Thank you for sharing a new part of France with the most amazing sounding and looking place to stay. Your experiences are an inspiration!
Wow! This sounds heavenly! Just added to my travel list. I want to go!