2020 has produced one million different ways to break our hearts. For me, the shuttered mom and pop shops, boom, right for the jugular. So when word floats my way that a Long Beach legacy is restored, reinvented, and resurrected, it’s not just a reason to try a new restaurant. It’s reason to celebrate one.
For eight years The Attic served as a communal common ground for the Long Beach masses. Housed in a corner hugging 1920’s craftsman, with interiors that evoke a hominess echoed in its southern meets New American menu, they’d circle the block awaiting brunch.
At the turn of the new year, owner Steve Massis brought on NYC ex-pat Chef Cameron Slaugh (Osteria La Buca, Eleven Madison Park), whose rural upbringing inspires his (#lifegoals) habit of planting the produce he plates. The seeds of such have already been rooted. While they grow, Slaugh has teamed up with local farmers and artisanal purveyors to elevate a menu spiked with a southern comfort and a farmer’s flair.
Inside, it’s folksy and fun, playful and welcoming. One of those places no one ever goes to once. And we’ll get back inside eventually. But for now, the patio, as it’s ever been, is the major pull. To accommodate our reality that is 2020, it’s been updated with canopying shades tilting automatically based on the set of the sun, allowing the brunch, lunch, and dinner menus to be enjoyed throughout. And a matching parklet has been installed to expand seating, limit waiting, and make social distant compliance something simple.
A fully face shielded staff is an immediate reminder of how much we’ve missed people, and that The Attic hires good ones. Service is genuine and gracious; smiles are felt if not seen. The cocktail program is full of fun. I began with the Feather, featuring gin, yellow chartreuse, orgeat, lemon, and rose water. Light and clean and that rosewater leaves a nice, lingering note.
Grandma’s cornbread, served in a skillet, slathered in caramelized honey, oh yes, absolutely yes. It is welcome back decadence delivered. The albacore crudo is a great choice too, with the kefir lime, watermelon and basil, refreshing and clean. And the heirloom tomato and strawberry salad, it arrives glistening and gorgeous – fabulous. And I almost passed on their house staple, the one that put them on the map, their mac and Cheetos (my internal David Rose was struggling with the Cheeto part). Would have been a big mistake. Served in a bubbling cauldron topped with those eponymous crunchies, you simply cannot eat this and take anything seriously at the same time. Reason enough. Also, it is outrageously good.
Main wise, I went for the Chicken Under a Brick, served with farro and a tang of herbs. Excellent. Tables around us enjoyed fried quail, tomahawk pork chops, rib eyes and clam bakes. Gabi had the grilled orata, which I meant to taste but I was too involved in my own. Purportedly it was delicious. And frankly, it was just so good to see people take such pleasure in eating out again. I’ve missed it.
To that end, this is not a place to question dessert. Their seasonal cobbler, on buttermilk crust, with vanilla ice cream and thyme, served in a skillet? Ridiculous! Or traditional New Orleans beignets? Oh, my friends. This is not a place to question dessert.
Long Beach is a great in between – not LA, not OC, but a central spot between the two. If there is any part of you ready to dine al fresco in a safe, strategic, and sanitized way, please pick up and take to the Attic. If any year has ever called for cobbler, or cornbread, or a Mac and Cheetos to make David Rose gasp, grab a spoon my friends. We can still dig into delicious.
The Attic, 3441 East Broadway, Long Beach, CA 90803, USA.
Tel: 1(562) 433-0153
Take the 405 to Lakewood Boulevard in Long Beach and then Redondo Avenue to East Broadway. Street parking is available around the restaurant bur is mostly residential, just make sure to follow the street signs.
The restaurant is open Mondays from 11:00am to 10:00pm; closed all day Tuesday, open Wednesday and Thursday from 11:00am to 10:00pm; and open Friday to Sunday from 10:00am to 10:00pm.
Type of Restaurant: Southern Style Restaurant
Price Band: Medium
Insider Tip: Reservations highly recommended.
Reviewer’s Rating: 8/10
Jolie Loeb is a Luxury Lifestyle columnist based in Los Angeles.
Photographs courtesy of The Attic
I can’t wait to eat out again! I miss is… thanks for the taste of the things we are missing…
My David Rose would be that cobbler….yum. So glad to see progress on re-opening of long time favorites.
Great writeup! Pictures are amazing too.
Yummy!!! Can’t wait to try!!
I love the charm of Long Beach and this sounds like a MUST try spot! Great review!
You had me at Cheetos — the good kind! I will be masking up and getting in my car to enjoy my first pandemic dining out experience at this little piece of culinary paradise!
As always, your descriptions of the food and the setting make me want to go to this restaurant. When I begin to venture out it will be on my list. Thanks!!!!!
I’m getting the cornbread, Mac and Cheetos and cobbler. I promise to wear green to balance the color palate!
I’m all for the cornbread. Mmm. Looking forward to checking this out! Thank you.
Mouth is watering. A little out of the way, but if called for a road trip to Long Beach, I know where I want to stop!
If ever there was a time to read one of Jolie’s amazing reviews….I may miss them as much as I miss eating out in restaurants. This one was music to my ears and can’t wait to try this place!
Let’s hope now that you are spreading the word this little jewel will succeed as it so deserves. Every descriptive adjective you used hit its target and I’m anxious to call and reserve an out door table! (and Long Beach is far from home….but this destination makes a road trip all the more promising!)
Not a fan of Cheetos but Mac & Cheese and Cobbler are enough to get me to drive to Long Beach. I’d drive there to meet David Rose too.
Me too! Also that made me laugh.
I am so looking forward to eating out again! And I’m very glad to know about a great place in Long Beach, because it’s a good central meeting place for members of my family. Thank you for giving us a taste of what’s to come!
I know where I’m taking my residents to eat after work! Looks amazing
A safe place to eat apple cobbler??? I’m there! I’m so, so there!
That all sounds crazy delicious! And Long Beach is so close to LA, but still gives you the feeling like you are away. I plan to check this place out soon, wearing my Rose Apothecary t-shirt.
Reading your exquisite details about their food, makes my mouth water. I can’t wait to try their signature menu and seasonal cobbler. Thank you again, for introducing me to another culinary treasure.
Now I can’t get Grandma’s Cornbread put of my mind. Everything sounds so unique and delicious! On my list of spots to try.
Cornbread served in a skillet! That alone makes this restaurant worth the drive. While I’m there, I will try the crudo too.
That cobbler looks delicious! I have never understood why more restaurants don’t have one their menu! Hand sanitized….. mask in purse… here I come!
We actually ordered the mac and cheese sans cheetos to start; but, our brilliant server insisted on bringing over a small ramekin filled with the flaming hot bits to throw on top. Flaming hot cheetos on their own, meh. With the mac and cheese — brilliant. The orata was outstanding and the cornbread. The cornbread. Is it an appetizer? Is it a dessert? Does it matter? Answer — it’s both and it doesn’t matter. It’s delicious — it just depends when you want that warm, buttery, sweetness. It’s a must. Great service and a great vibe. The it’s-October-so-why-not plastic skeletons all dressed up and sitting at the bar were a silly, but homey touch. Worth the drive from wherever you are.
Okay, I should be catching the David Rose reference. But alas, am not! That said, the notion of mac and cheetos alone had all ears in my house thoroughly perked! 🙂 This sounds amazing…especially this time of year. Letting all my LB peeps know!
David Rose of Schitt’s Creek fame!! Sorry, I assumed the whole world watched, perhaps because the whole world should. Objectively speaking.
This is a family favorite! Nestled in our neighborhood and always has a line. Outside is casual and inside more formal. Such a gem – a wonderful neighborhood restaurant with incredible food!!
Such a wonderful restaurant nestled in our neighborhood. People come from Orange County and LA to eat here. Line is usually down the street a bit but it goes fast. Great flavors. So lucky to be able to walk to it!
Mac and Cheetos? Where do I sign up? I’m so in.
Omg I love the interior! And Southern food is always a comfort. Thank you for these delicious photos and descriptions – can’t wait to check it out!!
Sounds amazing! Would love to try it