It was almost as if the guardian angel was back in town as the glowing UNESCO listed belfry stood proud and tall protecting the beautiful city of Mons.
Lit up at night in warm yellow colours, the 17th century piece of remarkable architecture dominates the skyline and is the first landmark to see when arriving by public transport.
Welcome to wonderful Wallonia, the stunning French speaking region of Belgium which oozes an easy going charm, with the mighty Mons at the centre of it.
With its cobbled streets, beautiful buildings, arty independent shops, classy restaurants and lovely locals, it’s a fabulous place to spend a few days.
Just 40 minutes from Brussels Charleroi Airport and the city is ready to be explored. A fancy dan renovation to the railway station has transformed it from its modest origins of 1841 to a striking new architectural masterpiece opened in December 2024.
Costing 480 million euros and designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, the hallmark of the station is a 182 metre long, 5,200 ton steel pedestrian bridge which elegantly links Place Léopold to Place des Congrès. With five platforms and space for 862 vehicles, the all-inclusive station is a modern gem in the grand old city.
One big advantage is that it’s linked so well to the centre and its official inauguration at the end of January, will also coincide with the Mons en Lumières festival, which runs until 6th February and for eight nights will see the city centre lit up with 20 spectacular light installations and projects which blend in with both the historic and urban settings.
All events are free, and guest of honour will be renowned Japanese artist Tadashi Kawamata, who will explore the theme “Between Earth and Sky”, celebrating the beauty of the natural world and connection with the universe through a large installation in the trees of the Place du Parc.
Mons is so easy on the eye and a joy to visit, with the aptly named Martin’s Dream Hotel a great place to stay.
The four star beauty is a converted chapel, in the heart of the city on Rue de la Grande Triperie and its laid back trendy décor is easy on the eye, with the standard mod cons, access to a spa and the lovely Le Bistro Martin which serves up local and seasonal food, from sole and shrimp ravioli and cheese croquette and Waterloo beer for starters to classic steak and fries and vegan burger for mains, plus Brussels waffles and chocolate mousse for dessert.
A hearty breakfast with a great selection of special cereals, breads and teas sets up well for a day of sight-seeing in this compact and walkable city.
The Mons card gives access and discount to all the main attractions and Mons Memorial Museum is a great place to learn the important role the city played in World War I, with the Battle of Mons being the first major action of the British Expeditionary Force against the German army in the opening weeks of the war and where the first British death was reported when Private Parr was killed.
Until 11th May 2025 the museum is running a fascinating exhibition to mark the 110th anniversary of the battle and the legend of the Angel of Mons. Inspired by a story from Arthur Machen, it is believed that the figure of St George appeared accompanied by celestial archers or angels dressed in white who protected the British troops.
The exhibition aims to understand the popularity of the story by examining the phenomenon of miracles and apparitions during the war and looks at the theme of religion and the need to believe in times of war and decoded the links between culture and propaganda.
And turning reality upside down is celebrated at the impressive CAP/Fine Arts Museum which is currently celebrating 100 years of surrealism. With a refreshing approach, the exhibition examines the disturbing object and its impact on society through poetry, painting and photography through the 1920s and 30s and contrasts the surrealist object with newer movements that placed the object at the centre of the artistic scene from the 1960s onwards.
Mons is rich in culture with the pick of attractions including the UNSECO recognised Belfry, described by French playwright Victor Hugo as a “huge coffeepot flanked by four smaller teapots”, but in reality standing at a mighty 87 metres and having withstood wars and plagues without a mark on it.
It has played its role in warning locals of impending dangers, fires, bombings and invasions and today it marks the rhythm of life thanks to its 49 bells which ring out.
Close by is the stunning St Waudru Collegiate, with its impressive architecture and stained glass windows. Its simplicity is its beauty, but it is also home to a treasure of monuments and sculptures.
Magical history comes alive at The Doudou Museum, where visitors follow in the footsteps of St George and the Dragon through a museum packed with interactive devices which tell the tale of the medieval, legend and the difference between reality and imagination.
In the heart of the city, lies the art nouveau jewel, the Maison Losseau, an 18th century house linked to famed architects Paul Saintenoy, Henri Sauvage and Charles Sarrazin, with a floral décor including mosaics, panelling, stained glass, inlaid parquet, cabinets and chandeliers.
Just strolling round Mons is fun, to see its wonderful individual shops and restaurants among the cobbled streets and the Grand Place where the Mons Monkey, outside the impressive City Halls, must be given an obligatory rub of the head for good luck.
Art is big too, with 49 al fresco pieces dotted around and sending its own message. Drawn by painters from across the world, the works are designed to allow them to express themselves and the result is some excellent and interesting pieces representing the multi-cultural identity of Mons, a thriving university city.
Food is also excellent in the city from the famous Belgian frite at Chez Bily to Mémé Tartines which serves the most impressive sandwiches and homemade lemonade with flavours from raspberry to palma violet and salads and desserts to die for at BouleDeBleu.
With the angel watching over and the monkey bringing good luck, Mons is the most magical of places to visit.
Fact Box:
Low cost carriers fly from the UK to Brussel Charleroi Airport and Mons is 40 minutes away and easily accessible by train and bus. Car parking at UK airports can be booked through APH Parking, which has 44 years’ experience and offers a safe and reliable service with a booking system which can compare 150 car parks, hotels and lounges.
On the ground, the tourist information in the Grand Place is run by friendly and efficient staff. Alternatively, before setting off you can get itinerary ideas from: www.visitwallonia.com.
Author Bio:
Rebecca Hay is an experienced travel writer and member of The British Guild of Travel Writers. Follow her adventures with her family on Twitter and Instagram @emojiadventurer and on Facebook via EmojiAdventurers2
Photographs courtesy of Visit Wallonia
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