Idris Elba’s Porte Noire Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs has been carefully curated to complement oysters’ subtle flavours and unique brininess, creating an unparalleled taste sensation.
The Porte Noire wine bar, brasserie-style restaurant and on-line wine shop was opened by the actor, producer and DJ with David Farber in 2021.
Located at the foot of the Gasholders, opposite Regent’s Canal Towpath at Coal Drops Yard in London’s King’s Cross, it features an extensive selection of international wines curated by Farber, founder of Connaught Wine Cellars. The oyster-friendly Grand Cru produced by Champagne Sanger. It is described as “The essence of the 42 terroirs of the four regions of Champagne”.
Porte Noire’s Rosé Champagne is a blend of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir grapes, sourced from the prestigious Chardonnay Du Sezonnais and Pinot Noir Venteuil terroirs. Bottled in 2020, this sensational champagne undergoes meticulous aging for a minimum of 24 months in the bottle. resulting in a refined and sophisticated taste.
Chef Mark Hix MBE also knows a bit about bivalves. He opened The Oyster & Fish House in Lyme Regis in 2017. With oysters, he recommends his local West Country Bride Valley Chardonnay or Castlewood sparkling brut.
Vitek Melichar, Bar Manager at Manzi’s recommends Albarino O Rosal, Bodegas Terras Gauda from Galici with sweet Carlingford Lough Rock Oysters, Manzanilla Papirusa, Bodegas Lustau sherry with Rossmore Natives and Paul Bara Brut Reserve, NV From the Grand Cru village of Bouzy, with Jersey Rocks.
What with today being National Oyster Day and the UK season beginning on 1st September and oysters being able to be legally fished during the months of the year that contain the letter ‘r’, the question is the accompaniment to the gourmet brine. What goes best with your Rockefeller, grilled oyster with parmesan or raw oysters in a half shell with crushed ice and cucumber mignonette.
If, that is you are one of those gourmands who like a bit of elegant vivacity, the proverbial zesty lemon notes and grapefruit and elderflower nuancing with the expensive shellfish and can’t make do with Morrison’s excellent Muscadet or Pouilly Fume.
Picpoul de Pinet is famous for being a classic match with oysters due to the proximity of the vines to the Mediterranean and the vast saltwater expanse of the Etang de Thau. The fresh nighttime marine breezes keep the vines cool and are also said to add a saline hint to the grapes, hence the compatibility of the wines with oysters and seafood.
Sainsbury’s offer Ormarine Picpoul de Pinet 2022 from the southerly slopes beside the Etang de Thau, a saltwater lagoon and second largest lake in France. Made from 100% Piquepoul Blanc grown on limestone clay soils and harvested at night to preserve the freshness and aromas of the grapes, it is certified Terra Vitis for sustainable viticulture. Majestic has its Ormarine Villemarin 2022 from the Languedoc.
Majestic Wine also recommends Wind and Waves Alvarinho, Vinho Verde, Vilarnau ‘Gaudi’ Organic Cava Brut Reserva, Penedès and a 2022/23 Moillard-Thomas Chablis.
Bancroft Wines goes for Champagne Pierre Moncuilt N (£51.49), Sancerre Le Chene du Roy, Domaine Pierre Girault (£23.99) Estate Furmint Juliet Victor Tokay (£23.99) and even a sherry Fino Del Puerto Solera from Bodegas Lustas NV Familiar (£10.00).
London seafood restaurant chain Wright Brothers Half Shell Gin is distilled with oyster shells. Wright Brothers Half Shell Gin was created in partnership with The Ginstitute distillery in west London and has been designed to complement the restaurant’s oyster, shellfish and fish dishes. It will also be used in the restaurant’s cocktails.
Ivan Ruiz, Wright Brothers beverage manager, said:
“We use Carlingford oyster shells, which are cold macerated in neutral spirit and then distilled.
“We then add a percentage of the distillation to the gin. The oyster shell taste is then balanced with kelp seaweed and other ingredients, like juniper and Amalfi lemon. The result is a savoury gin with high mineral notes and a pink pepper finish.
“Half Shell Gin is the perfect pairing to a cold platter of oysters and best served in a classic gin Martini to balance the briny nature of oysters or seafood.”
Robin Hancock, co-founder of Wright Brothers, added:
“Our Wright Brothers Bloody Mary, which comes garnished with an oyster, is synonymous with our restaurants.
“Our guests have always enjoyed pairing oysters with drinks, so this feels like a natural progression. We’d thought about creating our own wine, but we feel gin, especially this gin, reflects both our restaurants and the city we call home.”
The on-line fishmonger sells a dozen, home-delivered, fresh tide-filtered, No3 size, grade A Jersey rock oysters for £18.50 and Irish Co Louth Carlingsford Lough oysters for £20.50. Their luxury Oyster and Wine Celebration hamper comes in at £120 and the Oyster and Piper-Heidsieck Champagne hamper at £140. Oyster masterclasses and shucking workshops are available on-line via: www.thewrightbrothers.co.uk.
Author Bio:
Kevin Pilley is a former professional cricketer and chief staff writer of PUNCH magazine. His humour, travel, food and drink work appear worldwide, and he has been published in over 800 titles.
Photographs courtesy of Wright Bros. Ltd and Porte Noire
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