Beloved readers. Springtime is here, and she is tempting us in every esculent, effusive way. It is the flirtiest of the seasons; fragrant and phenomenally unabashed. An ideal time to re-enter restaurants and lavish over lemon ricotta pancakes or a tomato and feta soft scramble. Theía on West Third is open. And a wonderful place to begin again.
For starters, the return of brunch. If I could hug a meal, I would hug brunch. The buzz of conversations escalating over caffeine. The smell of smoked syrup mixed with salted potatoes, the convivial clamour and clank of filled forks and steamy coffee mugs; it is a poetry and a song.
Theia elevates the experience in flavor and a bit of fantasy. Echoing its Grecian ethos, designed to entice, entrees are exotic and emblematic of origin.
The Pita Benedict arrives with poached egg, choice of lamb sausage or smoked whitefish, and tomato. Gabi went whitefish and a little crazy over this one. The tomato and feta soft scrambled, served on multigrain toast, luscious and textural. And the Theía Grain Bowl. How much I’d missed a grain bowl done right (I’ve tried. Mine just aren’t). Quinoa, wheat berries, avocado, tomato, marinated broccolini, feta, and a poached egg? There it is. That’s how it’s done.
For those who lean into lunch when it comes to brunch, there’s a Theía Burger, (a lamb and beef mix topped with tzatziki, lettuce, tomato, and onion), some spanakopita served with eggs, and of course, a Greek Salad.
And the cocktail program. This is why brunch runs till 4pm here. A Bathtub Gin of Mulholland cucumber gin, fresh lemon and lemongrass, Fever Tree tonic, endive, cherry tomato, and mint. Practically a salad unto itself. Except not at all. Bloody Marys and bottomless mimosas, and a Brunch O’clock, featuring Tanqueray gin, Amaro Montenegro, fresh grapefruit juice, and wheat beer. Cheers.
Until we can make it to Mykonos, the flavors of Greece can be relished over on West Third. The stonework and the vintage doors. Fresh florals on every table in pops of pink and electric lime. The dangling bulbs and the diving greenery. In plating, in pottery, and in palatability, doing brunch at Theía is an international trip of savoury and succulent delicacy. How good it is to be back.
Theía, 8048 W 3rd Street, Los Angeles, CA, 90048, United States.
Tel: +1(323) 591-0059
Parking on Third is tricky, so mind the signs and check out surrounding streets. Theía is open for dinner Monday to Thursday from 5:00pm to 11:00pm; Friday and Saturday from 5:00pm to midnight and Sunday from 5:00pm to 10:00pm. Brunch is served on Saturdays from 10:30am to 4:00pm.
Type of Restaurant: Contemporary Greek Restaurant Lounge
Price Band: Medium
Insider Tip: If boozy brunches are your thing, you will be very happy here. Mezcal in the Bloody Mary is the way to go.
Reviewer’s Rating: 8/10
Jolie Loeb is a Luxury Lifestyle columnist based in Los Angeles.
Photographs courtesy of Theía and by Jolie Loeb