So, there I was in Dover eager to join MS Borealis for a voyage around coastal Britain. No mega ship this, no climbing walls or razzle dazzle Vegas style shows, just a timelessly elegant vessel encouraging life’s stresses and strains to melt like ice cream. When Fred. Olsen acquired the 1,353 passenger, 702 cabin ship from Holland America in 2020, they made some changes which included dispensing with the casino and replacing it with a lounge. The new owners were mindful to tread cautiously, they didn’t want to lose sight of the line’s sense of tradition, things like captain’s cocktail parties, formal nights, set dining times, all harking back to cruising’s golden age and, in the main loved by its British passengers. Geared to the over-50s market that also means no thrills or chills in the shape of slides to plunge down or walls to climb up. On the other hand, there is a busy daily programme, so guests who feel inclined can get stuck into a whirl of things, everything from yoga classes, carpet bowls, painting and can even learn to play the ukulele.
After a brief stop in St Peter Port, Borealis sailed across the Celtic Sea and next morning the Skellig Islands came into view. A chorus of ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ greeted the sight of rock formation Skellig Michael, with 7th century St Fionan’s monastery just visible to eager eyes on board. If the 7th century is too far back in the mists of time to get excited about though, the island has a more recent claim to fame as Luke Skywalker’s sanctuary in one of the Star Wars films.
We were heading for Killybegs on Donegal’s Wild Atlantic Way, the 1,600 mile scenic touring route following the length of Ireland’s western coast. At one time the port was home to one of the world’s finest carpet making industries, producing carpets which graced the floors of Dublin Castle, Brighton’s Royal Pavilion and The Vatican. My chosen excursion had nothing to do with carpets though, I was off to see a sheepdog trial demonstration. Malinbeg village is where to find working farm ‘Away to Me’. For those who don’t know, ‘Away to Me’ means ‘go right’ in the sheepdog world. I spent a very happy couple of hours as these clever, friendly dogs were put through their paces and the beautiful bond between farmer and animals was plain to see. As a dog lover, I could have merrily lingered there all day, but no such luck. Time was scurrying by and our coach was waiting to swish us back to Borealis where the captain was getting ready to head for Stornoway in the Outer Hebrides, famed worldwide for its Harris Tweed, the only fabric protected by an Act of Parliament.
After sailing over the wine dark sea and arriving next morning at Scottish seductress Stornoway, I didn’t have to wait long to hear more about the super robust but lightweight fabric. Eager local guide Maggie was anxious to tell us everything we might want to know about this cloth designed to resist howling winds and serious rain yet still look stylish. Later, I tarried a while in the company of the mysterious Callanish Standing Stones which pre-date the Egyptian pyramids and Stonehenge. It feels inconceivable that these stones could have survived here for over 5,000 years.
Then, as the song says, it was over the sea to Skye, littered with brooding mountains, wild glens and soaring rugged cliffs all hinting at a violent, elemental past. Off I went to explore Dunvegan Castle, long time stronghold of the Chiefs of MacLeod, the only Highland fortress to have been continuously occupied by the same family for 800 years. Dolphins arced through the waves nearby as a slight detour saw us pass the islands of Canna, Eigg, Rum and Muck, collectively known as the Small Isles. Exuding a kind of end-of-the-earth drama, these islands are inhabited, though populations are tiny.
So much in this glorious part of Scotland, my homeland, to see an embarrassment of history to mull over, but time doesn’t stand still and after another overnight sailing we arrived at Kirkwall, capital of the virtually treeless archipelago of the Orkney Islands and one of Europe’s richest Neolithic landscapes. I visited the Italian Chapel, constructed by Italian prisoners of war during World War II using simple materials. This symbol of peace stands alone on Lamb Holm, a tiny island. Then after a quick tour of pretty Kirkwall, it was time to get back on board as Borealis set sail again, this time to carry us back to Dover.
I had enjoyed a comfortable cruise with friendly, socks pulled up service, the feel-good factor in spades and visited some lovely places. What could be better than that?
Fact Box:
For details of this and other Fred. Olsen cruises world-wide, please visit www.fredolsencruises.com or call +44 (0)1473 746175.
Holiday Extras offers UK airport and cruise parking, hotels, lounges and transfers. Visit www.holidayextras.com or call 0800 316 5678.
Author Bio:
Gilly Pickup is an award winning journalist and author of 13 traditionally published books.
Photographs courtesy of Fred. Olsen Cruise Lines and by Gilly Pickup
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