Warsaw is elegant, fun and full of impressive architecture. The food is great, the people are friendly and almost all of them speak English, which is just as well because my Polish is non-existent.
A two hour flight with LOT, the national carrier, took me to Warsaw’s Chopin airport, named after the famous composer and pianist. It was a 20-minute drive from there to the Hotel Indigo. It’s spacious, comfortable, in the centre of the city and ideally placed for exploring on foot. It also offers one of the best breakfast menus I have seen in a long time. I’m happy to confirm that Crepes Suzette and a glass of Prosecco really sets you up for the day.
The hotel is at one end of the Royal Route, the city’s most famous street. The pedestrianised thoroughfare connects three former residences of Polish rulers, the Royal Castle, the Royal Lazienki and the Wilanow Palace and I admired the many elegant buildings that line the route such as the Polish Academy of Science. Near the southern end is the Holy Cross Church. The main church was built between 1679 and 1696. Following his death in Paris in 1849, Chopin’s heart was returned to Warsaw and interred here. The church was badly damaged in 1944 but was rebuilt between 1945 and 1953.
There were a number of black benches along the Route. As well as providing somewhere to rest, they included buttons which, when pressed, allowed people to hear some of Chopin’s music being played through small speakers.
By night the Royal Route became party central. Restaurants of all types spilled on to the street. Musicians played, entertainers entertained, crowds of people walked up and down, dressed to impress. You won’t find too many track suits and trainers here, the rah-rah and the miniskirt are alive and well in Warsaw.
I enjoyed dinner at U Wieniawy, at the other end of the Royal Way from the hotel. The restaurant was inspired by General Wieniawa and the elegance and style of pre-war Warsaw. Guests are advised “In the event that a dispute-of-honour has occurred, the involved Gentlemen are requested to duel outside the premises.” The ambience was lovely and the food and service top class.
On the subject of food, Poland’s national dish is Pierogi. These are small dumplings which come with a range of fillings and toppings. At U Wieniawy my pierogi were filled with meat and topped with sour cream and bacon slices. Delicious, I can definitely recommend them!
I also enjoyed a late breakfast at Dej bakery. Founded by two young women in one room of a parent’s house, it produces top quality fresh bread and pastries and is now so popular it occupies the whole house, employs 15 people and generates long queues each morning.
The country suffered badly when it was occupied during WWII and the uprising in August 1944 to rid it of the German occupying forces. The resultant loss of life and destruction of the capital were catastrophic. The Warsaw Rising Museum, depicting life and events of the time, is still hugely popular with locals of all ages.
On a lighter note, Warsaw is also home to the Money Centre, located in the Headquarters of the National Bank of Poland. It’s sometimes seen as a museum, but it is so much more, a story about money, trading, how to spot counterfeit money and even a gold bar. Try lifting one and you will never again believe what you see in the movies. In a similar vein, the Polish Vodka Museum traces the 500-year-old history of the famous drink.
Like many capital cities, Warsaw is on a river, the river Vistula, but until recently it has largely been ignored as a benefit for both locals and tourism. I took a river cruise it was clear that making the most of this natural resource is still work in progress. However, on a hot, sunny day a couple of small riverside beaches proved popular, as did the cooling sprays mounted in the nearby pavement.
I also visited the Royal Lazienki Garden. This large park is home to a number of royal residencies and is popular with locals. Cycling is not allowed, sanctuary from the bikes and e-scooters that seemed to occupy many of the pedestrian areas elsewhere in the city. On summer Sundays it is also home to twice-daily outdoor Chopin concerts; crowds gathered early around the lake in front of the Chopin monument to find a shady spot to sit and enjoy the music.
There’s a lot to see and do in Warsaw and whilst the written language may be indecipherable to many visitors, English is almost universally spoken and English menus are always available. Welcoming, hospitable and just a short flight away, it’s an ideal location to visit and experience all it has to offer.
For more information on what to see and do in Warsaw, please visit: www.go2warsaw.pl.
Author Bio:
Mike Pickup is an award-winning travel journalist and photographer who covers all forms of travel including ocean and river cruising for UK national newspapers and magazines.
Photographs by Mike Pickup
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