It’s a rare thing to find a place so magical in childhood has remained as beautiful as it was 50 odd years ago. The car free island of Sark, just 45 minutes away from the equally picturesque Guernsey in The Channel Islands, is a dream destination.
As the world’s first dark sky island, it’s simply stunning, with flora and fauna to match plus deserted beaches, undiscovered caves and 562 proud residents.
And with the island’s oldest hotel today, still as lovely and unspoilt but even more luxurious, it’s wonderful to see such a fabulous place matching the happy memories.
Good times come flooding back as the Sark Shipping Company boat gently chugs into Maseline Harbour, an important spot in history as the landing place 80 years ago when the Germans took control.
For five long years from 1940 The Channel Islands were the only part of the British Isles under German rule and became the most fortified part of the Atlantic Wall.
On May 9th, 1945, the British warship HMS Bulldog arrived at St Peter Port in Guernsey and the Germans surrendered. The next day, Sark was liberated, and the island began its recovery.
Eighty years on and the liberation of the Bailiwick’s will be marked by some serious fun and a visit from The Princess Royal.
And Sark will play an important part in this momentous occasion, starting off with the lighting of a beacon at Pilcher’s Monument in tandem with the rest of the UK, with the flame marched up to the island prison to lock up until May 10th and street parties, theatre, film and games for all ages in between.
A self-governing British Crown Dependency, the island is simply wonderful from the moment the old-fashioned Sark Shipping Company boat and its friendly and efficient crew pulls into the harbour and passengers are taken to the top by the “toast rack” tractor.
Island transport is either by foot, bike, horse and carriage and those lucky enough to stay at The grand old lady, the Stocks Hotel have their bags delivered from the harbour straight to the hotel.
The hotel is the epitome of unfussed class. Following stylish renovation in 2009, the 23 upmarket rooms are spread through the main historic farmhouse, the Dower cottage and former hayloft. Originally owned by Harry Stock, the hotel was commandeered by German officers during the war, before being rescued by the Armorgie family in 1979.
Following its sale 16 years ago, Paul Armorgie remains a director today, firmly keeping the old-fashioned service alive.
Modern meets traditional décor wise, with impeccably kept grounds, a swimming pool and delicious meals and drinks in the main oak panelled dining room and wood beamed Smugglers Bar with the largest whisky collection in The Channel Islands, delicious Sark cider and a poolside bistro and bar. A nice touch is the welcome home-made biscuits and sloe gin, plus treats from the neighbouring Caragh Chocolates, to enjoy upon arrival.
It’s the peace and natural beauty which makes Sark extra special. A short walk through gorgeous woodland from The Stocks, takes in the deserted Dixcart Bay, a popular place for foragers who sign up for a weekend of culinary magic under the expertise of John Wright of River Cottage fame or take advantage of the differing environment for wellness events.
The three and a bit mile island is an outdoor paradise with splendid sands at La Coupée beach which divides Sark and Little Sark, the gorgeous La Seigneurie House and Gardens and Creux Harbour where the Liberating Task Force 135 sailed in on May 10th, 1945 to free the island of German occupation and The Avenue, where bikes or horses and carriages can be hired and where the main shops and cafés are, as well as a gold post box in honour of Olympic gold medal winner and local horseman Carl Hester. There’s also an art studio and close by the tourist information, heritage centre, prison and archaeology room inside a renovated cider barn.
Natural gems are in abundance with the Venus rock pool to swim in, the island’s dark skies observatory or visiting The Henge, a stone circle, hidden along the clifftops built in 2015 to make the 450 year anniversary since Queen Elizabeth I granted the Fief of Sark to Helier De Carteret in 1565.
A 45 minute journey across The English Channel leads to the equally impressive island of Guernsey, which is full of narrow streets, stunning architecture, museums and outdoor swimming. Even the bus shelters are ornate.
The liberation of the Bailiwicks’ is just as important here, from walking tours to the most historically significant wartime locations to the German Underground Hospital, the largest structural reminder of the occupation and a maze of tunnels which covers more than 6,950 square feet.
It’s a concrete labyrinth built under a low hill in the countryside. The La Valette Underground Military Museum is where the Germans stored fuel for their military boats and today full of memorabilia.
The 800 year old Castle Cornet proudly protects the island perched on the harbour and close by are the La Vallette Bathing pools, four coastal Victorian swimming spots which have been upgraded for today’s users.
But there’s so much more to Guernsey than its history, it’s such a pretty island and a fun way of seeing the main sights of its capital, St Peter Port, which can be reached via Victor the Petit Train, driven by Andy Furniss, who entertains as he drives!
The well-kept Candie Gardens are a rare example of a late 19th century public flower garden and afford fabulous views of the neighbouring islands.
A short rib ride in the channel gives the opportunity to see the wealth of wildlife, from seals to puffins and the neighbouring islands of Herm and Lihou, and back on dry land, Hauteville House, the lavish former home of French writer Victor Hugo and Guernsey’s art museum, currently showing two excellent exhibitions featuring war stories and Guernsey milk and butter, are just two of the many interesting places to visit.
The Peninsula Hotel on the picturesque headland of Rousse, with beautiful views over Grand Havre Bay and Port Grat beach, is a great base with modern facilities and a seaside style décor and restaurant plus the bonus of an outdoor swimming pool.
Much more modern in look than Sark, Guernsey is equally proud of its links to the Second World War and with the 80th anniversary of Liberation Day this week, real celebrations are taking place with colourful parades, re-enactments, a cavalcade of pre-1946 military vehicles, cars, tractors and floats, musicals, drone show and topped off with a firework display.
Restaurant and bars will join in the fun, no high street fast food outlets here, just classy independent eateries and the only drive through at the Oatlands Village, where historic brick-kilns and thatched barns have been converted for retail use.
With a mild climate, out of this world landscape and an attitude of old-fashioned courtesy, The Channel Islands are the ultimate holiday spot!
Where to stay
The Stocks Hotel in Sark offers the best rates by booking directly through their reception or via the website or email. For any two night stay or more, guests receive a complimentary Sark welcome gift upon arrival of homemade Sark sloe gin and handmade Sark Chocolates Caragh chocolates and a farmhouse breakfast. For stays longer than four nights, the hotel will credit the Isle of Sark Shipping Company ticket against the cost of food and drink in the hotel. The offer is not open to 3rd party bookings – www.stockshotel.com
Hotel Peninsula’s family ensuite rooms are priced from £336 per night for two adults and two children.
What to do
Avenue Cycles has a great selection of bikes for pedalling round Sark.
La Seigneurie Gardens in Sark are open from 10:00am to 5:00pm daily, priced at £8 per adult and £2 per child.
Entry to Castle Cornet is priced at £12 for adults, £3 for children seven to 18 and free for children under seven. The site is open from 10:00am. to 5:00pm every day until 2nd November 2025.
La Vallette Bathing Pools are free to enter and are open 24/7. The café is open from 7:00am daily between April and August 2025. Warm showers are available on site for a small cost.
Entry to the German Underground Hospital is priced at £6 per adult, £3 per child. The hospital is open from 10:00am to 4:00pm daily from May to September, and Friday to Monday in April and October.
The Herm Explorer Wildlife Voyage RIB tour is one hour long and priced from £35 per adult and £25 per child.
How to get there
Aurigny operates year-round direct flights from Edinburgh to Guernsey. Blue Islands offers multiple flights to Guernsey per day from Jersey and Southampton, plus daily flights from Edinburgh via Southampton.
Sark Shipping Company Ltd offer multiple daily journeys through the summer to Sark and have fare offers on their website: www.sarkshipping.gg. And Victor the Petit Train runs daily services.
Visitor information for The Channel Islands
You can find friendly tourist information on Sark at www.sark.co.uk and for Guernsey at www.visitguernsey.com.
Author Bio:
Rebecca Hay is an experienced travel writer and member of The British Guild of Travel Writers. Follow her adventures with her family on Twitter and Instagram @emojiadventurer and on Facebook via EmojiAdventurers2.
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