Not everyone heads to the Alps in winter to ski.
That may be a surprise to some, and anathema to the die-hard ski fraternity,
But whatever you make of this trend, more and more winter visitors are seeking an ‘activity balance’ to their alpine stay.
Resorts are increasingly recognising that, particularly those with less predictable snow conditions.
However, while relatively snow-sure, Nendaz in the heart of the 4 Vallees ski area of Switzerland is also a destination where you can experience a diversity of off-the-piste options.
A romantic winter walk, for example, sampling mountain cuisine, practising meditation and yoga in a retreat setting or reaching new heights with the thrill of a 100 kilometres per hour descent on a high altitude zipline are all on the menu.
Mountain flavours
Siviez at 1730m and above Haute-Nendaz, is a busy interchange of gondolas and chairlifts as well as a starting point for winter hikes, either in walking boots or snowshoes.
Routes meander alongside ski slopes, dive into the forest or follow a bisse, the historic waterways dug between the early 15th and late 19th centuries that irrigate this dryish area of Switzerland (yes, hard to believe given the amount of snow on the ground).
The Rando’Miam concept, a pre-booked self-guided tour that stops at mountainside eateries for a starter, main and dessert in different hostelries, adds a gourmet dimension to hiking.
With the snow glistening in the sunshine, the path rose gently as we set off mid-morning. Within 45 minutes we’d reached La Tetine (Ski bar La Tétine | Nendaz Switzerland), a rustic hut aside a blue slope where we sat outside to enjoy our starter: a platter of cheese and meat or thick pumpkin soup and coffee.
Waffles and wine
From there, the path crossed the piste and headed into the trees for the longest stretch up to Le Hameau de Tortin (Restaurant Le Hameau de Tortin | Nendaz Switzerland) at 2050m near the Mont Fort cable car.
Our main course was a choice of pasta and spaghetti Bolognese, fish and chips, soups and grilled chicken with vegetable and chips served buffet style.
The third and final leg saw us retrace our path toward Siviez for waffles and a bottle of white wine at Bar Le Tipi (The Siviez teepee), a small but atmospheric mountain hut centred around an Indian tipi and chuck waggon.
We had covered around five miles in an unrushed five hours, ate three courses and enjoyed lovely scenery, fresh air and exercise too.
Rando’Miam costs from CHF 45 and is among 100km of marked hiking routes through villages, across pastures and forested areas. There are snowshoe routes too.
Once back at Siviez, we hopped on the shuttle bus back into the centre of Haute-Nendaz, had an Aperol spritz in Eidelweiss, and then took a second bus to our accommodation 15 minutes further on.
Reinvigoration and wellness
Our residence was the discreet MAD Retreat, a yoga and meditation resort with a spa, steam room and pool, in mini chalet-style accommodation and vegetarian-only cuisine.
Reinvigoration is a watchword at the adults-only resort where the 23 residences are based on mazots, the small farmhouses traditionally used by alpine farmers with cattle tethered on a lower floor and family accommodation above.
Two original mazots have been repurposed from the surrounding area, their aged wood setting them apart from the more modern pine cabins built in a similar style that are scattered around the large central chalet, spa and restaurant.
Large windows draw in the natural light, the beds are comfortable and the mazots vary in size, including a premier suite with its own sauna.
And while there are no cows or goats at MAD, you may see chamois gambolling across the snow between the rooms.
Massive transformation
Skiing is an option, but Wellness Manager Nino Briot emphasises that most guests arrive for relaxation, rejuvenation and to participate in classes, adding:
“We have a passion about putting an ecological tone to the hotel, and that is seen with the vegetarian food and the ingredients we use.”
The emphasis is on wellness with yoga, meditation and breathing therapy classes in the retreat’s central studio, alongside time spent in the natural forest setting and individual classes, all coupled with a solely vegetarian menu.
Expect dishes such as beetroot cream soup with winter veg, stuffed zucchini and Jerusalem artichoke and crème brûlée for dessert from chef Sebastian.
Other dishes include quiche and salad; daal and mini naans; roasted onion and orange confit; wild rice and romanesco cabbage. Breakfast is bread, eggs, cheese, nuts, fruit, juices and cereals.
Relaxing ambience
It is, as the name suggests, a place to find ‘me’ time: take a yoga or meditation course, relax in the spa, go for a solitary walk in woodlands and spend time indulging your senses. As Nina says:
“The idea is to create a luxury environment with a relaxing ambience. We find that people understand and adore what we are trying to do.
“Some people also come to ski and spa, but when guests come for a week, we see a massive transformation in them and they seem to leave very relaxed.”
The resort, partnered with the budget ski accommodation of MAD Mount hotel in the centre of town, is located among snow-lined paths and trees and wonderful views of the mountains.
MAD Retreat hotel manager July Desmet comments:
“The vegetarian menu sits with the concept of the hotel, but the main thing is that people come here to take a moment for themselves with yoga and meditation; to eat well in a peaceful setting; and have a relaxing experience.”
Ski terrain
For those who just can’t resist strapping skis, Nendaz and the Veysonnaz slopes have fabulous terrain with access to a remarkable 410 km of slopes in the wider 4 Vallees area. More than half (53%) are red, a third (33%) are blue slopes, with 14% black, plus seven free track routes.
The runs start at 1300m up to a sky-scraping 3330m at Mont Fort meaning the snow is usually good throughout a season that runs from late November until April.
As a resort, Nendaz is more affordable and less crowded than neighbouring Verbier and has an distinctive appeal to skiers, spectacular views and terrain, particularly from the heights of Mont Fort where the Matterhorn is visible in the distance in one direction and the daring allure of Europe’s highest zipline awaits in the other.
High-speed thrill
Whatever way you descend is exhilarating, either negotiating black runs and mogul fields or the zipline across the valley.
The Mont Fort black run is one of the steepest in the Alps, while the zip line offers a different thrill. Once launched, you soon reach speeds of 100 kilometres per hour as you whizz 1.4km across the valley with an altitude difference of 383m from the summit of Mont Fort above the Tortin Glacier towards Les Gentianes.
If it’s a high-speed thrill, a romantic winter walk or a hideaway yoga retreat, Nendaz is a destination that has it all. And if you can’t resist hitting the slopes, there’s a wonderful array of ski terrain too.
Fact Box:
Flights/Train: Mark Nicholls flew London Heathrow to Geneva with Swiss International Airlines, train from Geneva Airport to Sion using the Swiss Travel Pass and then took the bus up to Nendaz in the canton of Valais.
Nendaz: visit www.nendaz.ch and www.valais.ch.
Ski pass: A six-day ski pass for the 4 Vallees ski area (including Verbier) costs 409 CHF.
Insider tip: Take the high life and fly the zip wire from Mont Fort for 45 CHF.
Accommodation: MAD Retreat: Chemin de Tsamandon 88, CH-1997 Nendaz, Switzerland.
Email: reservations@madretreat.ch
Website: www.madretreat.ch
Type of Hotel: Retreat
Numbers of rooms: 23 chalets, plus four rooms above the main restaurant (starting from CHF299/£268 a night per person including full board and courses).
Price band: Medium
Reviewer’s rating: 8/10
Author Bio:
Mark Nicholls is an award-winning freelance travel writer and author, based in the UK and has written for a range of national titles, specialist magazines and international websites and operated as a war correspondent in locations such as Iraq and Afghanistan.
Photographs by Mark Nicholls
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